
Opening the dossiers...
Opening the dossiers...

Paris for the icons. Lyon for the food. Mont-Saint-Michel for the silence.
Eight days, three cities, two TGVs, one tide. France is too big for a week and too small for a month — eight days is the honest middle. You get the icons in Paris, the bouchon dinner in Lyon that ruins you for any other dining room, and the dawn at Mont-Saint-Michel where the bay drains and the abbey looks like it's floating.
Paris is Days 1–4. Right Bank, Left Bank, Montmartre + Marais, then a slow day so you actually feel the city instead of just photographing it.
Lyon is Days 5–6. Two hours from Paris on the TGV, gastro capital of France, and the only place in the country where you can eat three Michelin-starred meals and a quenelle de brochet at a tiled-floor bouchon in the same week.
Mont-Saint-Michel is Days 7–8. The hardest to reach, the easiest to remember. You arrive in the late afternoon, walk the causeway as the tide is going out, and you have the abbey almost to yourself by 6pm because the day-trippers are on the bus back to Paris.
Total walking: ~50,000 steps. Total TGV time: ~5 hours. Skip August (Paris empties out, Lyon shuts down, MSM bakes). Best window: late April to late June, then September.



Paris food is two things: the morning ritual (croissant, espresso, standing at the counter) and the long lunch (one wine, three courses, two hours, no rushing). Skip the dinner-on-the-Champs-Élysées fantasy.
Real butter, not margarine. Fresh-baked, not from a freezer bag. The good ones shatter when you tear them. €1.50 at a serious boulangerie, €4.50 at a hotel.
Hangar steak (onglet) or rump (bavette), shallot sauce or béarnaise, hand-cut fries, one glass of Côtes du Rhône. The bistro standard.
Caramelized onions in beef stock, baguette toast, melted Gruyère broiled on top. Old-school bistro warmth — order it after a long museum day.
Pitas stuffed with chickpea fritters, eggplant, hummus, harissa. The Marais's contribution to Paris street food, and the best vegan lunch in the city.
Two batons of dark chocolate in laminated dough. Northerners call it chocolatine — that's a different argument. Eat warm, ideally walking.
Stand at the counter (au comptoir), pay €1.20. Sit at a sidewalk table, pay €4.50. Same coffee, two prices, both legit.
Yves Camdeborde's tiny dining room. Lunch is walk-in, dinner is reserved 2 months out.
Buckwheat galettes, raw-milk butter, hard cider in earthenware bowls. Brittany on a plate.
Greg Marchand's casual annex. The pastrami sandwich and the lobster roll are the play.
The green-awning institution. Take-away window — the seated room is half the speed at twice the price.
The macaron benchmark. Ispahan (rose-lychee-raspberry) is the one that got copied everywhere.
Take the Métro line 6 across the elevated stretch from Bir-Hakeim to Passy at sunset. Eiffel Tower out the right-side window, no €30 ticket required, no queue. Hands down the best free thing in Paris.
Pickpockets on Métro Line 1 between Châtelet and Champs-Élysées are aggressive — they work in groups of 3-4 teenagers. Phone in your front pocket, bag in front of you, don't engage with the 'do you speak English?' kid. They're not asking for directions.
Buy your Louvre ticket online with a 9am timed entry. Use the Carrousel entrance (the underground mall, not the pyramid) — 30 seconds through security vs. 45 minutes at the pyramid. Same museum.
Prem's fares (€30–80) appear ~4 months before travel and sell out for popular weekends. Same-day walk-up is €100–180. Book Paris→Lyon and Lyon→Pontorson together via SNCF Connect (the official site) — third-party resellers add €5–15 per leg.
The bay tide chart (horaire-maree.fr/mont-saint-michel) tells you when the causeway parking is dry and when the abbey looks like it's floating. Aim to arrive within 2 hours of high tide for the postcard view, then walk the bay 4 hours later when it's drained.
France is in Schengen — non-EU travelers need a passport valid for 3+ months past departure. ETIAS authorization launches mid-2026; check europa.eu/etias before booking summer 2026 onwards. Your driver's license is not ID at hotels.
Paris and Lyon: contactless everywhere, even at the bakery. Mont-Saint-Michel village: many small spots are cash-or-Mastercard-only. Pull €100 in cash before you leave Lyon — there are exactly two ATMs in Pontorson and they run dry on summer weekends.
Restaurants in France serve in two strict shifts. Show up at 14:00 and the kitchen is closed; show up at 18:30 and they're not open yet. Bouchons in Lyon often only do dinner. Reserve everywhere — La Fourchette is the local OpenTable equivalent.
Walking into a shop, café, or hotel without saying 'Bonjour' first is the single biggest reason Anglophones think the French are rude. Lead with bonjour. Always. The whole interaction warms 10°C immediately.
Tell me your pace, dietary, days, budget — and I'll rebuild Paris + Lyon + Mont-Saint-Michel to match.